If you want to do a professional looking job on backyard construction projects (front yard, too, for that matter), there are certain essential tools needed.  Sure, you can rent them.  But wouldn’t it be more cost effective and downright convenient to have them tucked away in your garage, work shop or tool shed?  Then you can pick away at these exterior DIY projects whenever you have the time (and energy).

Whether it’s a deck, fence, shed, patio or routine grounds maintenance, these tools are must-haves in any DIY enthusiast’s bag of tricks.

1)    Cordless Drill – I remember a woman I knew who had an epiphany about this handy tool.  She finally discovered that it wasn’t only a drill, but with the simple twist of a keyless chuck and change of bits, her cordless drill became a power screwdriver.  What versatility!  What practicality!  You can learn from her and get one of these – an 18 volt model is preferred.  And don’t forget extra Lithium Ion batteries and a dependable charger.  Enough said.





2)    Speed Square – This handy measurement and marking tool is essential for all things construction related.  If you will be building anything at all within your property, you’ll need a speed square.  And a package of carpenter pencils to go with it.  FYI – these make for great stocking stuffers.

3)    Laser Levels (and other laser tools) - Who doesn’t want a laser?  I mean, these are fun and practical.  How much better does it get?  You can find torpedo laser levels for those tight jobs, rotary laser levels for all around fun and dot laser levels for targeting more than one point at a time.  For backyard projects including grading, fences, walls and decks, the rotary laser level is likely your best bet.  Don’t forget a tripod.  And for even more space age fun and super accurate measurements, look at the Laser Distance Measure from Johnson.  Worth every penny for getting distances bang on.





4)    Screw Gun – This tool is essential, and not just because it make you feel manly to use a gun.  This little baby will save you countless hours and enormous amounts of frustration as well.  The Senco DS200-AC is a favorite, ideal for everything from wooden decks and fences to those drywall and flooring projects you’re planning inside the house.






5)   Circular Saw – Every carpenter or handyman needs a good circular saw.  Heck, you really should have more than one.  Cordless is best, although the blades are generally smaller than their corded cousins.  Look for a brand that includes a laser guide to keep your cuts straight.  And buy good, quality blades – you’ll never regret it.







6)    Specialty Bits – A masonry bit is handy to have for drilling through patio stones and other rocks.  Want to make your own garden fountain?  Get a masonry bit and have at it.  If you have any ideas about working with composite or hardwood in your yard you will need a Smart Bit.  For both pre-drilling and counter sinking, this item is worth its weight in gold.  Maybe even more.  The Smart Bit also eliminates that annoying characteristic of composites called mushrooming.  For the smoothest, cleanest finish on your composite deck board a Smart Bit is essential.

There are a lot of other important tools for backyard DIY projects, but this list will give you a good head start.  Print it off and tape to your fridge, kitchen cabinet or even the bathroom mirror.  There are no extra points for subtlety.  With these must-have tools in hand, it’s time to get cranking on that award-winning deck you’ve been dying to build.

Maybe you don’t need a railing or stairs on your ground level deck.  Or it could be that flower boxes are just not your thing.  Maybe skirting is irrelevant (on walkout decks you aren’t going to bother) or fascia board is something you trimmed off the budget.

Or maybe you’re going to tackle all of these things.  Good for you.  Now get moving.

Railing

Tempered glass railing in a wood frame.

If your deck is more than 24 inches off the ground then you’re going to need a railing.  There are plenty of options for the DIY deck crew, from the perennial favorite 2×2 pickets to a component aluminum system and even tempered glass railing. Pick whichever suits your style, house and budget.

Post spacing should be somewhere around 4ft on-center.  Check with your local building code in case they give you more leeway.  For convenience and comfort, you should look for a railing style with a top rail wide enough to set your drink on.

Pre-made steel, aluminum and glass sections will come with instructions.  Follow them.  And be sure to double check all of your post spacing before you start installing the sections.  This is especially true if the sections were special ordered.

Remember that the railing on your stairway has an angle.  Build the stairs first and again, double check your measurements.

Privacy Screens

Herringbone privacy screen with a decorative beam.

Essential for most yards in suburbia, a privacy screen is basically a fence installed on your deck instead of a railing.  You can use 4×4 or 5×5 posts, 2×4 stringers/crossbeams and then either deck boards (5/4×6) or fence boards (1×6) for the privacy part.  Create an interesting design with lattice or top the screen with a decorative beam.

Use your imagination and introduce some creativity here.  It’ll give your neighbors something nice to look at instead of spying on you.

Stairs

Deck stairs, up close and personal.

You can pick up stair stringers from the lumber stores (they come in wood or steel versions) or you can cut them yourself.  Contractors often use 2×12 lumber and notch out a 9 inch wide run (the part that you step on).

Building stairs can get complicated, so pay attention.  There are a lot of measurements and calculations you’ll need to do, but once it all comes together, it’s a beautiful thing.

A few important numbers to remember:

• Maximum rise (height of the stair) is 7 3/4″. Minimum Rise is 4″.
• You’re allowed no more than 3/8″ difference between rises on the stairway (that means you can’t get to the bottom or top step and just fudge it – all of the stairs must be equal height or within 3/8″ of each other)
• Minimum stair tread run (or depth) is 10″ – no maximum
• Minimum width of stairs is 36″ although recommended minimum width is 48″
• Stair Stringers must have a minimum depth of 5″ from the inside corner of the stair to the back edge of the stringer (use a 2×12 and this won’t be a problem)
• Maximum spacing in any one place between the stairs and the bottom of the railing is 6″
• Maximum spacing between stair stringers is 16″ on center – meaning on a 36″ wide stair, you’ll need four stringers

** Note ** These figures are pulled from the IRC (International Residential Code).  Your best bet is to check with the local building codes to get the measurements relevant to your area.  The golden rule is to always make the building inspectors happy.

Open faced stairs running down the front of the deck to save yard space.

You’ll need to measure how high off the ground your deck is.  Divide that by 7 or 7 1/2″ – this will give you the number of rises.  Don’t forget that the ground and the deck itself count as a rise.

Now take that number and multiply it by 10″ (or more if your treads will be deeper).  That is how far out your stairs will go.  If that distance infringes on your property line or anything else, you’ll need to install a landing in place of one rise and turn the stairs.

Don’t forget to include a flat space of at least 3 foot square at the bottom of your stairs.  Patio slabs work just fine.

Angled box steps for easy stair construction.

For the treads you can use two deck boards butted together or one 2×10 cut to length.

If your deck is only a few feet off the ground you can save a lot of headaches by building box steps.  These are literally small deck frames attached together and tied into the larger deck, creating steps to grade.

Flower Boxes

Build boxes from deck boards and install them permanently onto your deck as a patio garden.  Or use tall flower boxes as railing and to flank the stairs.  Don’t forget to install a liner designed to retain that valuable potting soil and water your flower boxes regularly.

Skirting

Vertical board deck skirting with gate.

Close off the space between your deck frame and ground with lattice or vertical board skirting.  This will help keep the critters out of there and provide a neat and tidy appearance.  If you drop something between the deck boards, skirting makes it a lot harder to retrieve, so hang onto your pocket change.

Skirting boards or lattice are attached to that ring joist you installed way back in step 2.  They can be installed flush to the ground or you can excavate and bury the boards down a few inches.  It’s up to you.  Use the skirting as backing for a border garden and be sure to put a gate in somewhere.  Use a gravity latch and simple hinges for the gate or just screw a removable section in.

Fascia Board

2x4 makes for a nice profile on your fascia board.

A 2×6 or 2×8 board nailed along the outside of the ring joists to cover up the ends of your deck board may seem unnecessary but it will give your deck a profile that looks professional and classy.  Go ahead and skip it if you want, but this finishing touch is simple to do, carries a small price tag and delivers an impressive look.

Personalize your deck with any or all of these finishing touches.  This is the stuff that will set yours apart from the other decks in the neighborhood and make the space feel like home.  Take your time, check your measurements and have fun.

Then congratulate yourself.  You just built a wood deck to be proud of!

You’ve done well. The posts are in and the framing for your deck is complete and solid. Now for the fun (and fast) part.

Installing deck boards is a fairly straightforward job involving a lot of repetitive work. First you measure, then you cut, then you fasten. Lather, rinse, repeat, you know the sort of thing.

Required Materials & Tools ~
2×6 or 5/4×6 deck board (5/4 has a rounded edge that makes a nice finish)
Nails or screws that are rated for use with ACQ lumber (if using pressure treated wood) – OR – Color matched screws for use with Composites
Circular Saw
Carpenter pencil
Saw horse and tarp
Screw gun / Air nailer / Some sort of fastening tool

Your circular saw will trim the deck boards along a carpenter pencil line.

• Measure – This is real easy if you designed a 12, 14 or 16 foot wide deck, since deck boards generally come in those lengths. If that didn’t happen or if you’re installing the boards on a 45 degree angle, you’ll need to lay each board onto the frame and mark the cut line with your carpenter pencil. Take your time.

• Cut – Use a circular saw, a steady hand and a few saw horses for this job. You can use a table saw out in the lawn to rip down boards at either end of the deck. This cutting process gets messy, so you might want to set a tarp out to catch the sawdust and make clean-up a breeze.

Deck boards are fastened directly onto the joists, unless you're using a hidden fastener system.

• Fasten – Attach the deck boards at the joists with two 3” nails or screws (#8 x 2.5”) in each joist. Common nails are considered the best for decking and wood framing. Speaking of that, whether you use nails or screws on wood decking is entirely up to you. An air nailer is fast and makes a clean shot once you get the hang of it. Screw guns are another option for speed. Many professional deck contractors believe that structurally speaking, screws aren’t any better than nails and using them just drives the cost up. DIY enthusiasts are better to stick with nails for speed, price and efficiency.

For composite products you’ll need a specialty screw with a reverse thread on the top end. Don’t forget to get a color-matched type. The Deckfast composite line from Starborn Industries is an excellent choice, reasonably priced and available in 7 different colors. Torx drive steel, epoxy-coated and featuring an auger point, these screws deliver what you need for composite decking. Check out the online Deck Match tool for a fool proof way to find that perfect color match.

Senco Duraspin screw gun

Upgrade to the Headcote line, also from Starborn and specially made for use with Azek composite. Pick either the torx drive screw or the straight square drive stainless steel, both come with an auger point. Cut down on any mushrooming (that’s waste build up around the screw hole, not something to stir fry) and make pre-drilling a cinch with Starborn’s SmartBit. This handy extension works especially well for the Headcote line and is worth every penny.

Hidden fastener systems can be use with both wood and composite products. Using these is fairly time consuming (expect the deck board application to take about twice as long as normal), but delivers an incredibly smooth, clean finish.

Composite Vs. Treated Wood

You’ve heard a lot about composite decking products and may be wondering whether they are the product for you.

Composite decking makes a gorgeous finish, but costs a fair bit more.

The cost is exponentially higher than standard treated lumber, sometimes as much as three times the cost for the deck boards. That said, you will be buying a lifelong product though and can enjoy years of a splinter-free surface.
Quick comparison. Your average 300 square foot pressure treated ground level deck with railing would run around $3000 for materials. The same deck using Trex Contours or Accents deck board pushes you closer to $5000 and the Transcends line is even higher.

As for the maintenance factor, don’t be fooled. There isn’t a product out there that is truly maintenance free. Wood will need to be stained in order to keep its good looks, often times annually. Composite products don’t need to be stained, but they will grow mold, could discolor and will require annual cleaning to keep them up to snuff. That process won’t take as long as the average wood deck staining job (and definitely isn’t as messy), but don’t invest the money in composite thinking you can install it and forget it.

Everything requires maintenance.

Whatever option you choose, now that the deck boards are on, your project is nearly complete. Sit out on the fresh, new surface and have a gander at your handiwork. Step 4 is up next, where we tackle railings, fascia board and stairs. Kind of like putting the jacket and tie (or makeup and shoes) on our deck, those touches will really dress up the backyard.

So you have your posts in, rock solid 4×4s or 6×6s ready to hold up your deck framing.  Now it’s time to put together a frame in the right shape and size for your dream backyard deck.

Maybe you’ve planned for a multi-level design or are getting ambitious with a rounded front or an octagon inset.  Whatever your dream is now is when it starts to take shape.

Ideally you’ve either used quick-setting concrete for the posts or have let them set for three to four days.  So get to it already.  Framing for a medium to large sized deck should take anywhere from a half to a full day for completion.

Start Against the House

Joist hanger is attached to the ledger, which is tied into the wall with hardware.

Attaching or hanging the ledger board against your house is the important first step.  Get out the level and 1/2” x 10” stainless steel carriage bolts.  You’ll need to go through a 2×8 and into the foundation, securing your deck frame to the house.  Use the appropriate washers and nuts to tie it all together.

On a walkout level deck this essential fastener will connect the 2×8 ledger to the inside framing of your house, traveling through the exterior finish whether brick, siding or stucco.

From the Ledger Out

Once it’s up and secure, nail joist hangers onto the ledger every 16”.  Be sure to use 1 1/2” nails (sometimes called joist hanger nails) that are rated for use with today’s pressure treated wood.  All framing hardware and fasteners need to be hot dipped galvanized (at the very least) in order for them to last when in contact with ACQ lumber treatments.  Even if your decking is composite, cedar or another type of lumber, the framing is almost always built out of treated wood.

Galvanized is the basic stuff.  If you want real dependability, opt for 18-8 or 316 stainless steel.  You’ll get your money’s worth in longevity and strength.

Laminated 2x8 beam notched into the side of a 4x4 post.

Beam Me Back to the Posts

At a level just below the ledger board, attach the beams to your wood posts.  Use laminated beams (two 2×8 boardsnailed together and notched onto one side of the post with 5 or 6” wood lags) or double beams (2×8’s attached to either side of the post using 3 1/2” wood lags).  Contractor opinion is split between the two methods and both deliver a strong, stable support for your joists.

Just Joists Left

After the solid beams are up, all that’s left of the framing is joists.  With their ends sitting in the joist hangers and running parallel to rest on top of the beams, your joists can be 2×6 or 2×8 dimensions.  Toe-nail them into the joist hangers and into the beams.  Space joists no more than 16” apart and run the rim joist along the outside edges, using joist hangers again for a tight fastener fit.

Fancy Framing

If you’re doing multiple levels or inset shapes, treat every level like its own mini-deck.  Build your beams and a joist system to provide the support needed for each individual level.  With the deck board and railing installed, they will come together to form one flowing deck.

Rounded fronts are done by creating an arch shape with different joist lengths, notching the backside of the ring joist and bending it to fit around that arch.  Measure twice or three times and cut once for the simplest installation.  Use lumber that’s slightly wet for an easier bend and you’ll probably need to nail the ring joist directly into the end of the joists.

Joist toe-nailed into double beam.

Once the framing is done, fancy or not, the basic shape of your deck is laid out for you to see.  Get a good visual and lay down any gravel or landscape fabric you want underneath.  Now you’re ready to really see the deck take shape.

Step 3?  Installing the deck boards is next on our list, so stay tuned.

You know you want it.  A place to lounge in the sun, host an outdoor summer bash or simply sit and catch your breath is just what you need.  All of that can be waiting outside the patio door if you tackled the plan to build a wood deck.

It can’t be too difficult, right?  With the right tools, a few afternoons of work and at least one extra set of hands it won’t be.  Your brand new, well built deck will sit proudly in your yard waiting for the kick off BBQ to start.

Building a deck is simple with only 4 basic steps:
•    Posts
•    Framing
•    Decking
•    Railing and other features

Don’t get too excited.  Within those four steps are a list of tiny, baby steps and big hurdles to get over.  Sounds like a challenge and DIY folks are always up for a challenge.

Throw a Post Digging Party

This Dingo with auger bit attached is the quick and easy way to dig post holes - well worth the rental fee.

Here’s where you can stretch those muscles and get involved in some hard labor.  Mark your post holes ahead of time with paint or stakes and string.  Also, give the local utilities a call to locate the phone, cable, gas and electrical lines underground.  Stay safe (and keep the cable TV on).

Depending on your grade and the deck’s height off the ground, you may need to excavate or level the grade.  Do what you need to do and remember that treated wood can be safely sunk in the ground.

Get the tape measure to the bottom of your 48" deep hole.

Dig your post holes about 48” deep and bell out the bottom for more stability and protection against frost heaving.

You can either extend 4×4 or 6×6 posts out of the ground and attach directly to the frame or pour a concrete pier (that’s essentially a hole filled with concrete and providing a flat surface on top).  Each method requires different hardware.

For extended posts you’ll need a 3/8” x 3 1/2” wood lag to attach the framing.  Use an impact driver to get the lag in with speed and accuracy.  Carriage bolts (3/8” x 7”) are another possibility and work well with wood.  Pre-drill your hole and set the nut tight to keep it all firm and strong.

With concrete piers you’ll need to bolt a post saddle into the concrete and attach a 4×4 with lags or carriage bolts to the saddle.

Benefits and drawbacks of either method?

Piers and saddles are good for the DIY crowd and you can get away with shorter 4×4’s or 6×6’s.  Don’t skimp on the hole depth or you’ll end up with a crooked deck come spring.

Put the post against your string line and fill the hole with concrete.

Extended 4×4 or 6×6 posts are simple to install in the hole with poured concrete around them.  Make sure you let the concrete set properly and use a string line to get the posts in the right locations.  Don’t forget to get that level and check the posts.

Mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow or rent a cement mixer for larger jobs.  This is grunt work, so draw straws.  For fast simple and fast results use quick setting concrete or a specialty fence/deck post mix.  You’ll need access to a nearby hose as well.

Fasteners should be 18-8 stainless steel although some contractors use hot dipped galvanized to cut costs.  In coastal marine environments, opt for 316 stainless for your best protection against the elements.

Step 2?  Framing is next up and coming in our next article. But have a drink and rest… those posts need to set so they’re ready to support the rest of the deck.